An Honorary Pirate

This blog post is to thank all of the great young pirates in Grade 3B at the Carlthorp School in Santa Monica, California. Jack, the son of Dr. Amy Zegart, my former graduate school professor at UCLA, and his class, led by Mrs. Tarvin, have adopted me as an honorary pirate on their class ship!

Thank you for writing me such nice notes. Even though I am a grown up and a Navy officer, I still get homesick sometimes. Afghanistan is very far away from the United States, as you have learned. Your letters have brought me so much joy! I am very touched that you are thinking about me and all of the other soldiers protecting the country.

Life is difficult here. It snows all the time, and there are bad people all around us. But we stay positive because we know that we want life to be great for all of you back home and for the good people of Afghanistan. That is why we are here. Something I have been reminded of here is how good it feels to make a difference in the lives of children and adults who suffer every day because their country has been at war for so long. Whether you decide to be a doctor, lawyer, teacher, construction worker or soldier, always remember to help those in need whenever you can.

I am honored to be on your pirate ship, and I hope that one day you can sail over here and take me back to America, I will definitely come visit your class when I return to the U.S. and can visit Santa Monica. Ahoy, sailors!

Space Constraints

ISAF is probably the nicest base in Afghanistan. As a NATO command, it is international. I especially appreciate the array of menu selections. Lamb chops with mint sauce, pasta and pesto, and grilled salmon are all at ISAF. But this base was originally built for 800 people, and now there are more than 1500 permanent residents. This causes some logistical nightmares and severe crowding.

I have been here for two months, and only now have I moved into my permanent room. I no longer have Italian roommates, but I have more space and a real place to call “home.” In a future post, I will profile my new living arrangements, but for now, I want to tell you a quick story about my friend Jamey, who came to visit for a day, but is now stranded because his helicopter was cancelled.

Jamey has now been here for three days, and has had four different rooms. Now he is in a tent, probably a more permanent location—for now! Because rooms keep filling up so fast for permanent residents, transient soldiers like Jamey are forced to play a game of musical rooms.

Life on deployment is full of ups and downs, and we certainly do not have all the conveniences we are used to in the U.S. But the staff here at ISAF does its best to fix or improve challenging situations. For that we are thankful. Just a few years ago, the thought of eating hot meals and living in hard buildings in a combat zone was pure fantasy for most of us here. Now it's a daily reality. For me, serving our country is not about the money or the perks, but to help protect the national security interests of the United States.

Fun Under the Lights

We work seven days a week in Afghanistan. Unfortunately, the security situation does not allow for days off. Ever-changing circumstances require constant vigilance. If the insurgents are working, then so are we. But that doesn't mean there isn't time during the day (or night) to have some fun.

Physical fitness is a "must" in the military. Recently, our command sponsored evening volleyball. ISAF has a lighted volleyball court that is usually occupied by members of the international coalition. Whether it's the Macedonians, the Italians or the Canadians, you can always find action on the volleyball court. So far, our American contingent has played only within our group, but I'm hoping we can start an international tournament this summer.

Unfortunately, I hurt my back lifting weights in the gym and was unable to play in the most recent match. Instead, I served as referee. Notice the holster and pistol in the picture above. How often do you see an armed referee? Fortunately, I did not make any controversial calls, but if I had, it was nice to know I had some protection!

A Taste of Home

Immersion into life in Kabul is an experience of a lifetime, but that does not mean I don't crave some comforts of home. The strong European influence on our NATO base provides delicious food and cultural richness.

The other day, we went to Camp Phoenix, another base in Kabul. To my surprise, right in the middle of the Post Exchange, was a Dairy Queen!

I have always had a passion for DQ. My friend Tommy and I had a tradition of stopping at one on our way to and from Norfolk for Navy Reserve duty. And during my childhood, my grandfather would sneak me off to DQ, leaving my grandmother at home holding a bowl of granola. Discovering DQ in Kabul seemed like divine intervention!

Here is a photo of Specialist Shipp and me chowing down on a Blizzard. Remember the song, "Happiness is Two Kinds of Ice Cream" from You're a Good Man Charlie Brown?" This is what happiness look like.

The Wreckage of Kabul

My last post gave a glimpse of some post-Taliban recovery in sections of Kabul. New stores, restaurants, and even some modern luxuries have made their way into Afghanistan's ancient Capital. But the scars of war remain, and are fixtures of a city that still has much healing to do. It's hard to imagine enduring 30 years of war, more than five times the length of America's involvement in World War II.

In Kabul, there is no need to imagine, because the reality is everywhere. Buildings have pock marks from bullets, and entire structures were destroyed by either Soviet bombing or civil war. Years later, these artifacts are a constant reminder of past conflicts. Someday, let us hope in our lives, we will see a Kabul where the only scarred landmarks are monuments to preserve history and to remind generations to come of war’s devastation. For now, Afghanistan’s ever-present past is real, and a fact of daily life.

Virbrant Kabul

Even after 30 years unrelenting violence, Afghanistan is more than a poverty-stricken, war-torn country. Yes, there are reminders of danger everywhere, yet a recent drive through Kabul shows something else. Parts of the city are busy and lively, as my photos show. The economy appears to be functioning, and people go about their daily lives commuting, shopping and picking up children from school. I saw electronics stores, restaurants, Internet cafes, and other establishments one expects to see in any city. Some of the locals I’ve met say that Kabul has become more built up since the removal of the Taliban. Let us hope that our presence here assures continued progress.

The Tragedy of War

Afghanistan seemed far away just two months ago, but being here, though I am not facing down insurgents, makes the war feel very close. All wars cause tragedy, and none of us wants to fight them; but some, such as this one, can be considered "just wars." The U.S., along with other NATO forces, is fighting to bring stability to a severely threatened country.

Unfortunately, innocent civilians, those we are working hard to help, get caught up in the fighting and lose their lives. The American and NATO forces here take every precaution to avoid such casualties, but Taliban militants use noncombatants as human shields to scare the population. The Taliban have killed many more innocent civilians than Coalition forces have, but every innocent death is tragic, no matter who is responsible.

Recently, my boss, Brigadier General Michael Ryan, visited villagers after claims of civilian casualties following a fight between American forces and insurgents. Ryan went to a remote part of the country to offer condolences to the families of victims who lost their lives. I was touched by this action, and it has strengthened my resolve to work as hard as I can here to help bring about positive change for the deserving people of Afghanistan. The photo above shows Ryan sharing an emotional moment with one of the village elders. The world needs to see this side of the conflict.

Speaker Pelosi comes to Afghanistan

Kabul is beginning to feel more and more like Capitol Hill with the steady appearance of official visitors from Washington! Most recently, Speaker of the House, Nancy Pelosi, attended high-level meetings at ISAF (and I caught a glimpse of her). One thing that feels very different about being here is the lack of partisanship I sense and how being and American, not defined by party, predominates. We are grateful to see our elected officials, both Democrats and Republicans, show such deep concern about the challenges facing this war-torn nation. They see for themselves the devastation and critical situation and can return to Washington with clearer perspective and deeper knowledge and understanding of what’s really happening on the ground.

It takes real courage to come to Afghanistan. It’s dangerous and definitely not a comfortable place to be. But their visits are tremendous morale boosters, for their trips here show concern and earnestness to us in the military as well as to the Afghan people.

What I look forward to are many more visits by elected officials and diplomats from the U.S. and other NATO countries. I am convinced that along with our military presence we can find a working solution to vastly improve the situation here. This is an extraordinary country with a rich past and proud people deserving to reclaim their nation.

La Bella Italia

The Italians have become central to my international experience here at ISAF. I now know more Italian words than I do Dari, the native language here in Kabul. Beginning with my first trip to Italy at the age of 12, I have felt drawn to Italian culture, food, and history. With my many Italian friends on this base, I sometimes think I'm really in Napoli or Milano!

Last night my roommates invited me to a party at the Italian NSE. An NSE (National Support Element) is a building for each country that serves as its headquarters here in Kabul. Soldiers go to their NSE to deal with their administrative issues. But the Italians use their NSE for social events as well, which is not surprising! The party featured delicious cuisine that one would find in an upscale restaurant in Rome. Troops from dozens of countries attended--a great cultural exchange.

Soon, I will start eating some authentic Afghan food; but for now, being in Italy is fun! Here are some pictures from the event, including one of Amadeo, my other roommate, and me.

Holbrooke Visits Afghanistan

President Obama's special envoy to Afghanistan and Pakistan came to Kabul this week to hold several high-level meetings with President Karzai and other leaders. He had a press conference with the media and conducted an interview with a local TV station, which my colleagues and I helped to coordinate. It was an amazing opportunity to hear first hand his thoughts on the strategic importance of this mission.

It's hard to believe that we are in the middle of a worldwide effort that for years we read about or watched unfold on TV. Being here makes me even more passionate about what the international community is doing to stabilize this country, and I hope that we can help enable an eventual success.

Here is a link to an AP story that highlights the upcoming strategic review by the United States and Afghanistan for the future of the mission:
http://www.google.com/hostednews/ap/article/ALeqM5hvWEqwq3CrRvaQCmt21MfoYhjZJQD96BRIE00

Your Military in Winter Wonderland

We have been getting plenty of snow in the Kabul these past two days. Since we don't commute--all life takes place on base--there are no "snow days" such as the ones the DC school system is famous for (and even the federal government, for that matter). The snow is definitely bringing out the inner child in people here, with snowball fights happening all over the base. I certainly miss my high shool days when we would get the day off simply because there was a chance of snow in the weather forecast.

Sweet Home Kabul

I have been on the new compound for a couple of days, and despite yesterday's attack which was quite jarring, I am actually starting to enjoy myself. The Afghanistan effort is run by NATO's International Security Assistance Force (ISAF), comprised of 39 nations working together to rebuild Afghanistan and bring stability to a nation that has suffered decades of war. Not only do I have the opportunity to help improve conditions in Afghanistan, but I get to be the foreign exchange student I've always wanted to be --in multiple countries at the same time! It's a rare and extraordinary gift.

My roommate, an Italian Army officer, is from Naples. We connected immediately. Francesco has shown me around the base and is helping me to adjust to the new surroundings. Perhaps he'll teach me a few Italian phrases, as well!

There are many members of the British military on this compound. The UK has close to 10,000 troops in Afghanistan. My first exposure was at the airport when the Brits greeted us and gave us a ride back to base. Perhaps when this entire experience is over I will have many new homes away from home all over the world!

I have included pictures in this post of both Francesco and one of my new British friends. Can you tell who's who?

Kabul Attacks

Today I was hoping to describe all the fascinating people I have met so far, and to offer you my thoughts about living in such a great international environment; however, we were in a state of shock a few hours ago when the Taliban launched coordinated attacks on several Afghan government buildings, some just blocks from our our base. Nineteen people were killed, with many more wounded. We on base are safe, and most of us didn't even hear the attacks. It was startling, nonetheless, to know that deadly bombings were happening in such close proximity. We went on a state of alert, locking down the base and requiring all personnel to wear body armor when outdoors.

Now, I really feel planted in a dangerous a war zone. Let us hope that our efforts will lead to a more peaceful Afghanistan. For now, those of us here working to improve the lives of the Afghan people face daily risk.

Here is a link to a story on the attacks:
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/12/world/asia/12afghan.html?hp

Kabul, at Last!

Our arrival in Kabul was smooth! We took another military transport and landed at Kabul International Airport (KIA). It's very cold here and the air is not exactly clean. This is definitely a war zone. There are razor wire, sand bags, and security everywhere. The picture to the right is in front of the airport terminal on the C-130 that flew us here. More to come!

There was an important article in today's The Guardian outlining President Obama's new Afghanistan strategy. It's exciting to be here helping to make it a reality. You can find the article at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2009/feb/08/obama-afghanistan-us-foreign-policy